Romantic Beatings

We are having a local woman come over every night and help us prepare typical Ghanaian food for dinner. Her name is Mary. She is a teacher at the school. Last night she was preparing dinner and talking about relationships in Ghana. We asked her is domestic violence in issue in Ghana. She said "No! Sometimes husbands must beat their wives! It is romantic! It helps the relationship stay strong". All the women in the kitchen paused. Just to clarify, Mary is a woman. She continued for about 30 minutes and stated that beating your spouse is not bad and that sometimes men "accidentally" hit their wives and that is not a good reason to leave. (NOTE: It is only recently a crime to abuse your spouse in Ghana) We tried to explain the legal and social consequences that a woman-beater would experience in the States and she could not understand why a woman would call the police if someone beat her. She said, "A lot of women in Ghana are getting educations and then they won't cook and clean and get angry when their husbands beat them. But a good Ghanaian wife stays with her husband no matter what. It is what God says." I then realized that I was arguing with a fool and I would be just as foolish to continue in the conversation. I let it go for the moment. Today I polled the women and men around me and asked their opinions on domestic violence. The majority of men and women supported wife-beating and many of them gave the same reason,"it is romantic". Only two men spoke against it. Neither of them were married and I kind of think that they only said "I would not beat my wife. I would only love her" as a way of flirting with me. This is a very physical society. Everyone is hands on all the time. The children are constantly hitting each other. The teachers are constantly caning the kids. And I guess they all go home and beat the hell out of each other. Today I almost fell in line. I was asked to teach a class of younger students. Forty-five 7 year-olds and 1 me. The original classroom teacher is supposed to stay in the classroom whenever their is a guest teaching but I got ditched. No support. No lesson. Just 90 big eyes looking at me waiting. I made up a lesson and it was great...for about 45 minutes. Then students started getting up from their seats, smacking each other, talking loud. I used every classroom management technique I knew to maintain order. Unfortunately none of them worked. "Please sit down" does not work on a group of students who usually hear "Sit! Or I will beat all of you!". In desperation I did the unthinkable. I picked up the cane. No, I did not beat anyone; but, my job became considerably easier once I put it in my hand. There was a rambunctious group of boys in the back who could not get it together. I walked toward them and beat the desk a few times. That was all it took to be able to go on with my lesson. I guess I was finally speaking their language.

Today I included a picture of a typical shop in Ghana. Notice the name.

I'se Married Now

Due to a few inappropriate questions and uncomfortable situations, I have changed my status in Ghana from "I have a boyfriend" to "I have a husband, three children and a dog". There seems to be an obsession with chastity/virginity here; so much that people feel they have the right to ask you about your status if that see that you are young and unmarried. There are huge billboards that advertise the ABC's of relationships. A-Abstain. B-Be faithful. C-Condoms! I understand that all of sub-Saharan Africa is combating the spread of HIV/AIDS and I am on-board with sharing information. Knowledge is Power! I am a firm believer of that. However, that does not give anyone the right to be all up in my personal business! Somethings you just have to laugh off and keep it moving. Ghanaians are very overtly religious people. Every student is named "Abigail" or "Micheal" or "John". They even name their business Christian inspired names. It is actually kind of funny when you read "God Has Blessed Me Cell Phones and Electronics" or "Let Jesus be Pleased Braiding and Accessories". I have been invited to church at least 9 times since I have been here. I do plan to attend church one Sunday before leaving but I will wait until the end of my trip to go so they won't expect me to go every Sunday. Admittedly, I look forward to going. I think it will be a unique experience. You can hear churches worshiping nightly throughout the town. It is very loud praise. The holy ghost is all over this country. Even the Catholics shout in Ghana! Still, I find it difficult to watch how unquestioningly the locals have accepted the religion of their historical oppressors. I wonder what was different about the Africans during colonization that made them willing to give up their indigenous faiths where others were unwilling to do so. Indians remained true to Hinduism and most East and South Asians remained Buddhist but many Africans and South Americans converted. I can't tell if the obsession (yes obsession is the correct word) with Jesus is sincerely spiritual, from the heart, or just religious, based in rote practice. I also think it has a lot to do with the high rates of poverty. Many people in Kakumdo are so poor that all they have is hope and faith. If belief in Jesus helps them effectively cope with their harsh reality, I guess I cannot fault that. Still, I hope people start to look toward some earthly and immediate solutions. Even the most devout Christian can't pray the physical reality of hunger away...Speaking of hunger, there is a huge pile of trash in the village about 500 feet away from the school. Many children do not attend school because their parents cannot afford to send them so they roam around the village and through the town. The public schools are so bad that attending them is about the same as not going to school so, some kids just don't go. I can look outside of the windows of the school and see children rummaging through the trash or defecating in the trash pile. It is disheartening. I have asked the local teachers "When is someone going to clean up this trash?" They told me that it was cleaned up a few years ago and they left a dump for the locals to use. The villagers used the dump. When it was full, no one came to empty it because the roads inside the village were not good. So they were forced to place their trash around the trash dump, Still no one came to collect the trash. Three years later, you have the same massive heap of trash presenting all the health and environmental problems that the one did before. With that, The cycle of poverty continues...Today I was asked to teach a lesson about Jesus during the Religion and Morals Class. Imagine the students reaction when I told them Jesus was not white! I pulled out the map and showed them that the Hebrews were from Egypt (FREAKING AFRICA) and that they eventually moved right next door to Israel. There is no way that Jesus was White. Historically impossible. I told them that the picture that they had of Jesus in the classroom was a popular depiction of Jesus that was drawn by Michelangelo. Some were excited about the news I shared! Others were in disbelief! They just could not believe that their messiah was a person of color! I am not surprised though. I have watched many of these beautiful Black children play in the hair of white women and repeat "so pretty" for hours on end. They rub the white teachers arms in fascination of their skin. Another teacher in my group, who is White, expressed frustration with her students because she was teaching them Pronouns and they kept writing the same sentences about her; "You are so beautiful", "She has pretty hair", "She is so nice". My students have not written anything like that about me!... I think it is because I told them that Jesus was not White and they are probably still disappointed about it.

Black Girls Get Canned in Ghana

I am not sure if this will come as a surprise to anyone but they are NOT checking for Black girls in Ghana. A few nights ago I was having a meeting with my group and all the white girls were complaining about the number of indecent or marriage proposals they received since we have arrived. I, on the other hand, have not gotten one. I am offended and relieved. From what I understand, African men can be pretty aggressive...but everyone treats me like a little sister. Guess I am the lucky one after all. Well kind of. Because I am Black all the Ghanaians hold me to a higher standard of understanding the culture. Doing anything with your left hand is offensive because people wipe their asses with their left hand and I am having the hardest time remembering not to use my left hand considering that I come from an ambidextrous America. I handed a lady in the market some money with my left hand and she "ughfed" at me in disgust. They also keep trying to force me to learn Twi. I am trying but this is not going to be an overnight thing, especially because it is nothing like the romantic languages that are easier for English speakers to pick up. Most people in Ghana can speak English but you very rarely hear it spoken at all. I have learned two words in Twi. "Memawo-akye" which means "Good morning". I use this word on my morning run so the villagers will stop staring at me. When I say it, they laugh. I have also learn "Medase" which means "thank you" and I use this word after handing someone something with my left hand. It has bought me redemption several times. Today was my first day at work. I am teaching "Section 5 Civics" which equates to about 6th or 7th grade Social Studies. Perfect. The school is very poor and the classrooms are all open which makes it very difficult to teach and hear students responses. I am trying to get the hang of it. Like in many developing communities, students here are taught in rote memorization and repetition fashion. It makes it very difficult for a Social Studies teacher because much of the content is discussion based and debatable. I am trying to get with it though. Today the teacher told me to have the students write from the textbook. Because many of the students can't afford the books, the teachers write word for word from the book and students copy. A lot of work for the teachers, very little thought from the students. This teaching style is not going to breed world leaders. It results in order takers...the last thing this town needs to move it forward. I had a few talkative students. In an attempt to regain order I polled the class, " I think the reason you all are talking so much is because I am a guest. You did not talk this much when your teacher was in the room. You should be even more well behaved with me because I am a guest! What is the difference between me and her?" One mischievous looking boy from the back of the class pops up, "BECAUSE SHE CANES US!" and the class roars with laughter. A girl walks to the front of the class and grabs the cane and hands it to me. Talk about pressure. I playfully informed the class that I did not plan to cane anyone...yet.

Disclaimer: A reader has informed me that I curse to much on my blogs. They have a point. I will offer this disclaimer. If my foul language offends you in any way, please feel free to stop following this blog. Thank you.

Kakumdo

I have arrived in Kakumdo, a small village outside of Cape Coast, Ghana where I will be spending the next 6 weeks teaching in a local school. Oddly, that is about all I can say. This experience is breathtaking and has left me simply speechless. There is so much to be said. All that shit on t.v. about Africa is so not true...but then again...it is. The people are lovely and gracious; still, many of them are very very poor. It is odd to see t.v.'s that Americans are throwing out on sale for high prices. All of our old clothes, calculators, cars, furniture...it is right here in Kakumdo being sold and bought in markets. Everyone is buying and selling, yet so many people are unemployed. There is a lot of standing around. The food is amazing but the diet is very starchy. I need to make sure I run every morning. It is HOT! Which presents a major problem for me...I packed a lot of shorts to prepare for the climate but the women here don't really wear shorts. The dress is very conservative. I am going to go to the market and have someone make me some long loose skirts. I can get them custom made for close to nothing. Great for me! Bad for Ghana's economy...I'll be sure to give her a big tip. The picture that I have included in today's blog are of the view outside of my apartment. The goats live downstairs. Last night I took my first bucket bath. (I was COVERED in dirt because it is very dusty). Today was my first time washing dishes outdoors. Tonight I am planning to hand wash my clothes...who knows what new things I'll be doing tomorrow!

Merlot and Mosquito Nets

Last night was my first night attempting to get some sleep in Ghana. Please note the word attempt. First of all, there is a 5 hour time difference so I felt as though I was going to bed at 5:00 in the afternoon. I was tired but could not find sleep. I had a bit of South African Merlot that I drank out of Dasani water bottle because I figured it would help. Not to mention it was my first time sleeping under a mosquito net and that is an ordeal within itself. It is hot a hell under those things and the air does not flow through those little baby cracks in it. But let me keep things in perspective...I have no new mosquito bites this morning which is surprising considering that I was out chasing down runaways int eh middle of the night. I am a group leader on this trip and therefore responsible for making sure my group does the right thing. Of course, some dumbasses decided to leave the dorm and go on an adventure. Which means another group leader and I had to get out of the bed and hunt them down. Imagine walking around a dark campus in the middle of the night looking for some kids who have been drinking...I was not pleased. When I got back to the room it was past midnight, hot, and every horny freaking nocturnal animal was singing its mating call. We are leaving for the village shortly and I am tired. I will not sleep on the ride because I have to see the sites outside the window.

Akawaaba!

"Akawaaba" or "Welcome" were the first words that I read when arriving in Ghana. I was prepared though as the time I spent waiting to board the flight at the airport were indicators of what was to come. Women already had babies tied to their backs as they trudged through the airport with 4-7 huge suitcases they were taking home. What they were not dragging behind them they held on their heads. The men were interesting to watch as well. The younger guys are definitely influenced by hip hop culture and had their shades on the entire flight...even when they slept. Speaking of the flight, this was by far the most pleasant flight I have ever experienced. I picked over my complementary dinner, popped an Advil PM and awoke 10 hours later to an announcement that we were descending into Ghana. What more could I ask for. After boarding the plane we went through security and I couldn't help notice all these big Black men in uniforms and how they are often portrayed in media as monsters. Like most, I have been bombarded with ideas that African man+ Uniform = corruption, genocide and lawlessness. It is kinda of scary but in actuality everyone was very nice...Well, that was until we got out of security and everyone started bombarding us with questions, "Can I carry your bags?" "Come pretty girl, I'll give you a cab", "Can you donate to blah, blah, blah". It was expected but it is a bit overwhelming. With that, I immediately knew I wasn't in Kansas anymore. We got a ride from the airport to the University of Accra where we will be spending one night before departing on our missions. The ride was interesting. Ghana is the perfect definition of "developing nation". The first world and the third world co-exist. The Mall of Ghana is as modern as any U.S. mall; however on the way their you pass people sleeping and begging on the roads. Everyone has a cell phone; but many people still shop in open air markets...So far I really like it. I love the fact that everything is so Black. All the billboards are covered with advertisements of Black people, the political pamphlets are covered with Black faces and all the stores in the mall cater to Black folk.s Beautiful. Every African-American should experience this. Even if only for a day. Well I have to go eat dinner now in the meantime I need to stop by my room and freshen up on my "OFF!". I am constantly spraying myself with mosquito repellant. Tomorrow I am off to the village!

Pre-Ghana Thoughts

I am writing this blog from New York as I am waiting to board my plane that does not depart for another 5 hours. I guess I have a lot of time. I am ready to go. I honestly feel as if I have been on my way to Ghana for months. I am ready to go. My overall feelings are of excitement. Shockingly, I have no real anxieties or concerns. Still, I had one small lesson that I learned this morning...Never take malaria medications on an empty stomach (even though that is what the prescription says). My morning was dampened by 2 hours of extreme nausea in which I awaited a pewk that never came. I just got the watery mouth and the stomach cramps. Yuck.